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Bands of Two-Pick Oblique
Interlacing
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The
bands on this page represent an elaboration on simple oblique interlacing. The technique's
increased complexity allows the warp ends to emerge at a band's outer edge, away from the
rug. As with simple interlacing, a few warps are held downward while each warp or
warp group is interlaced at an angle upward toward the fabric. But it then reverses
to weave downward. In other words, two oblique picks ('wefts') are interlaced with each
warp unit.
With a two-pick interlaced band, whenever a new warp yarn (or unit) begins
weaving upward, it follows the exact path taken by the last yarn on its downward movement.
When these yarns are packed together, they combine to make thick, oval-shaped segments.
Because two yarn units always lie together and both edges are bound, the weaver can trim
the emerging warp ends if she wishes. Like the simpler interlaced constructions, this band
looks the same on its front and back.
Occasionally, the downward interlacing stops somewhere in the center of the band. We
can describe these examples as partial two-pick interlacing.
To identify any of these interlaced bands for certain, and separate them from other
constructions, try folding them diagonally. You should then be able to follow the path of
the interlacing. For now, I think we should carefully distinguish between single and
two-pick bands, as the techniques vary significantly. Only after we have done so
with a considerable number of weavings will we know if the differences have diagnostic
value. |
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Gaziantep/Malatya Area Rug.
Southeastern Anatolia
47" x 79" (120 cm x 200 cm). First quarter, 20th century
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, H: 7.5, V: 11, 82 per square inch. (H: 30/dm, V:
43/dm, 1290 per square dm).
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool.
WEFT: Aubergine/brown wool single, 2-4 shots.
PILE: 1 or 2 wool singles; 2-ply white wool; height: 7 mm.
SELVAGES: 4 warps, reinforced in pairs with variously colored wool singles.
EACH END FINISH: Band of two-pick oblique interlacing;
weft-faced plain weave.
[DD-105. Daniel Deschuyteneer] |
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As with single-pick oblique interlacing, both sides of this 2-pick band look about the
same: thick oval segments are formed of yarns interlacing in opposite directions.
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Kurdish
Kilim. Hakkari area, Southeastern Anatolia
5'4" x 7'2" (163 cm x 218 cm). 20th century
STRUCTURES: Slit tapestry; soumak wrapping used for design outlines. Woven in
two panels.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory/tan wool, 9 per inch (35 per dm).
WEFTS: 2-ply wool; metallic-wrapped cotton; 44 per inch (173 per dm). Wool singles in the
end borders.
WARP-END FINISHES: 2.5 cm-wide bands of 2-pick oblique
interlacing. The fringe was corded originally.
[MM-1045. M. Mallett] |
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Two-pick
oblique interlacing has been used for very firm warp-end finishes on a great many SE
Anatolian Kurdish kilims. Here, the downward interlacing warp ends emerge on the
front of the kilim, and the back (shown below) has a slightly more "finished"
look. Even after the fringe yarns have worn away, this band will remain as a secure
finish. (Front)
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Just as with single-pick
interlacing, these bands are curved or slanted at their starting points. When the panels
of a two-part Hakkari Kurd kilim are assembled, the weavers typically put the two curved
ends together at the center seam. (Back)
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Kazak "Karachov" Knotted Pile
Rug. South Caucasus
6' x 8'10" (175 cm x 265 cm).
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, H:7, V: 7, 49 per square inch (H: 28/dm, V:
29/dm, 812 per square dm.)
Knots offset to better articulate diagonals in the design; knots overlapped, both to make
transitions and to increase bulk near the sides. Stacked knots used in the design (see
examples in the photo below). No warp depression.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool.
WEFT: 2 red wool singles; 3 to 6 picks, crossed between sheds, occasionally
jumping over rows of knots.
PILE: 2 wool singles.
SELVAGES: Four warp units (1,1,1,1), reinforced in pairs with wool singles (varying
color bands, and uneven coverage of the ground wefts).
UPPER END FINISH: Band of two-pick oblique interlacing;
currently turned under and sewn down.
[DD-129. Daniel Deschuyteneer] |
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This two-pick band has been
turned under and sewn down, although this seems not to be its original position. The
stitching was done with machine-spun cotton thread. The heavily abraded warp ends
are no longer visible. (Back view)
Stacked knots can be seen in a couple of places in this photo. At the downward-
pointing tip of each red triangle, brown and ivory knots have been tied in the space
usually allotted one knot. (The ground wefts in this rug are red. )
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Northwest Persian Knotted Pile Carpet
4'4" x 10'10" (132 cm x 330 cm)
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, H: 6, V: 8, 48 per square inch (H: 24/dm, V: 32/dm,
768 per square dm). Warp depression varies from moderate to none.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool.
WEFT: Primarily wool singles, in some areas 2 wool singles; brown, pink, tan or
gray; 2 picks, crossed between sheds.
PILE: 2 wool singles.
SELVAGES: 4 warps, reinforced in 2 groups (2,2) by multicolored 2-ply wool. The
reinforcement occasionally also interlaces one pair of warps within the knotted field.
UPPER END FINISH: Very sturdy 1 1/8" (3 cm) 2-pick
obliquely interlaced band.
LOWER END FINISH: Short warp loops. See the Warp Loop page for photo.
[AA-3224. Allan Arthur] |
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This wide 2-pick obliquely interlaced band is extremely solid and heavy-- definitely
a durable construction. Only fuzzy ends of the warps project along the outside front
edge.
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Northeast
Anatolian Rug. ("Kars Kazak")
3'6"x 5'9" (107 cm. x 175 cm.) 2nd quarter, 20th century.
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, H: 6.5, V: 6, 39 per square inch. (H:
26.5/dm, V: 23.5/dm, 623 per square dm.) No warp depression.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool.
WEFT: 2-ply grey/brown wool, red toward the top end; 4-5 picks, crossed
between sheds and occasionally over knotted rows.
PILE: 2 wool singles. Contrasting colors are knotted together in some areas.
SELVAGES: 3 warp units; the brown wool weft yarn alternately interlaces and
overcasts.
UPPER END FINISH: Plain weave; narrow band of 2-pick
oblique interlacing.
LOWER END FINISH: Plain weave; 1.5 cm. warp loops.
[AA-3056. Allan Arthur] |
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You can perhaps see here
that only 3 warps make the turn (at the left) to weave upward together, while in the thick
oval segments there are twice that number of yarns packed together. The upward and
downward interlacing portions have combined.
Note the very similar band on a much earlier Karachop Kazak rug above (DD-129)
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Heriz
Knotted Pile Rug. Iran
3'7" x 10'6" (169 cm x 496 cm). Circa 1900.
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, H: 6, V: 8, 48 per square inch. Slightly depressed
warp.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 4-ply cotton.
WEFT: Undyed cotton bottom half, beige wool top half; 2 to 4 shots between knotted
rows.
PILE: Wool. 10 mm long.
ATTACHED SELVAGES: Two pairs of warps (1 pair free- floating), interlaced with
multicolored wool singles.
UPPER END FINISH: Two-pick obliquely interlaced band.
(Similar to the examples above.)
LOWER END FINISH: Warp loops.
[MT-100. Mike Tschebull]
According to Mike, " This is a typical set of end finishes for a Transcaucasian rug,
but not at all for a Heriz-type export rug. The pattern is also atypical for export, and
it is something one usually only sees in Transcaucasian rugs. The format is also atypical.
I'm guessing that this rug was woven in about 1900 or before, at the very beginning of
export demand in rural Azarbayjan, and has finishes you might have seen on some domestic
market-intended rugs." This interesting rug has prompted some discussion, with other
people wondering if it might be from farther south. |
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Lambalo Kazak Pile Rug
4.6" x 6'6" (140 cm x 210 cm). 1948
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, 56 per square inch.
No warp depression.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool.
WEFT: Redish wool singles, 2 or 3 picks.
SELVAGES: 2 warp units (2,2) reinforced with short lengths of 2-ply wool (of various
colors) that also encircle one pair of warps in the knotted-pile section. Ends of these
multicolored wool yarns were left free hanging to form decorative fringe along the sides.
LOWER END FINISH: Warp loops.
UPPER END FINISH: Band of two-pick oblique interlacing.
[FB-100. Filiberto Boncompagni]
Filiberto believes that the date on this rug has been altered-- changed from 1948 to 1918.
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The obliquely interlaced
band on this rug is similar to those above. A much more unusual feature is the
multicolored fringe on the sides made with selvage reinforcing yarns. Each of these
separate weft lengths must make at least four passes so that the outermost warp is
enclosed. A similar feature appears on Uzbek and Kyrgyz weavings, where fringed
bands made with cards or finger looping are attached.
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Herki (?) Kurd Kilim. Iraq
2.6" x 7' (118 cm x 331 cm). Early 20th century.
PRIMARY STRUCTURE: Slit tapestry.
SECONDARY STRUCTURE: Small motifs in overlay/ underlay brocading.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool; 12 per inch (47 per dm).
WEFT: Wool singles; average 46 per inch (181 per dm).
SELVAGES: 2 pairs of warps.
WARP END FINISHES: 1.3 cm-wide band of 2-pick oblique
interlacing; 8-strand square braids, joined in pairs.
[MM-1037. M. Mallett]
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6-warp units interlace
only a short distance in this end finish, and then reverse to weave downward.
Because adjacent warp units lie together, they make thick oval bulges--each with 12 warps!
Eight groups of these warp units have then been corded and combined in 8-strand
square braids. Finally, these were bound together in pairs. A nearly indestructible
warp-end finish is the result.
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Anatolian Cicim
52" x 67" (132 cm x 170 cm).
STRUCTURE: Overlay-underlay brocading, 3/3 and 3/1 sequences predominate. Balanced
ground weave.
SECONDARY STRUCTURE: All horizontal borders are 3-span twining.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply brown wool; 17 per inch (67 per dm).
GROUND WEFT: 2 brown wool singles.
BROCADING WEFT: 3 wool singles; 14 per inch (55 per dm).
SELVAGES: 2 sets of paired warps.
ADDITIONS: Small variously colored tassels remain along one selvage.
FINISH ON ONE END: Obliquely interlaced band, with
partial 2-pick interlacing.
[PT-100.] |
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For this band, the weaver interlaced 6-warp units upward through 6 warp groups, then
reversed and turned the yarns downward through just a couple of warp groups. The
yarn ends thus emerge in the center of the band on the back side.
The front has a compact, but somewhat irregular look; the interlacing is more difficult to
follow than in most bands. Because it is thinner at the outside edge, this band
seems to bulge slightly in the middle.
(Front above; back side below)
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Malatya/Sinan Saddlebag
Face. Eastern Anatolia
26"x 25" (102 cm x 98.5 cm)
STRUCTURE: Slit tapestry.
SECONDARY STRUCTURE: Narrow borders of soumak, the two colors alternated
intermittently on some rows.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool; 14 per inch.
WEFT: 2-ply wool (very high luster); multi-ply white cotton; multi-ply white cotton
wrapped with metallic; 2-ply silk floss; average of 58 per inch.
SELVAGES: No special treatment.
END FINISH: Two-pick interlaced band, worked with
3-warp units.
[MM-992. M. Mallett] |
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A narrow 2-pick band
finishes the end of this saddlebag face. On some Sinan examples, the warp ends have
then been braided and sewn to the inside of the pouches. For an example, see Figure
17.7 of Woven Structures.
All late 19th century and early 20th century Malatya/Sinan saddlebags that I have seen
have had similar finishes. An older piece, probably early or mid-19th century, in
the Tokyo collection of Junko and Akira Ito, has a finely worked obliquely-wrapped band.
Yet there is little doubt that the two weavings are from the same area. See
the Obliquely Wrapped Bands page.
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Kagizman Yolluck. NE
Anatolia
2'6"x 9'8" (118 cm x 457 cm)
STRUCTURE: Overlay-underlay brocading (3-span) on a weft-faced ground. Soumak used
for horizontal design elements.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply brown/tan wool; 15 per inch (59 per dm).
GROUND WEFT: wool singles, 2 picks between brocade rows.
BROCADING WEFTS: 2-ply wool.
SELVAGES: 4 warps, reinforced in 2 pairs with 2-ply wool.
END FINISHES: 2-pick obliquely interlaced bands.
[MM-1805. M. Mallett]
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Sivas Yatak.
Eastern Anatolia
5' x 5'4" (150 cm x 160 cm)
STRUCTURE: Symmetrical knots, H: 6, V: 7, 42 per square inch
(H: 24/dm, V: 28/dm, 672 per square dm). No warp depression.
YARN SPIN: Z.
WARP: 2-ply ivory wool.
WEFT: Dark brown wool singles; 4 picks between knotted rows
(occasionally 3), crossed between sheds.
PILE: Wool, 2 singles, 2 to 4 inches long.
ATTACHED SELVAGES: Irregular, but up to 10 warps are
incorporated, most often interlaced by the ground weave in a
2,2,2,1,1,1,1 sequence. 2-ply wool (sometimes contrasting colors
plied) interlaces warp pairs, and extends varying distances into the
ground, forming wedge shapes (see below); the ground wefts, in turn,
extend varying distances toward the edge, only occasionally
interlacing all of the warps. The intervening knotting includes
stacked, overlapped and offset knots used to build bulk in the
border area.
END FINISH, Top: 5"
weft-faced plain weave skirt with narrow pick-and-pick bands of red
wool and white cotton, and one worn band of overlay-underlay
brocading; then a band of two-pick oblique interlacing. The lower
end finish is the same, but partially missing.
HANDLE:
Very heavy and floppy.
[TKG-114. Mehmet Kiliç, Tribal Kilim Gallery
Analysis: Daniel Deschuyteneer] |
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To produce the small red and white bands
in this rug's skirt, the weaver simply alternated wefts of the
different colors, to form tiny vertical columns. The name, "pic-and-pic"
simply means a pic (weft) of one color, then a pic of
another.
Only fragments of brocading remain, as floats on the surface were
more easily abraided.
The two-pic interlaced band has raveled a bit, allowing us to see
its construction more clearly. Three warps were used together as a
working unit, and two of these pics combine to form fat units of six
yarns.
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Heavy, plied selvage wefts interlace the warps in pairs on this rug, extending
various distances into the ground weave to produce a substantial and durable
edge.
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